Roy Yamaguchi tells me how he encouraged farmers to grow for Roy’s restaurants. Daniel Lane photo.
I’m a big fan of Roy Yamaguchi. He makes gorgeous food that tastes delicious, and he’s a nice guy. I had the honor of meeting him, and we talked about the challenges of sourcing from local farms and feeding a lot of hungry people. But this morning, as I drink a disappointing cup of Roy’s coffee, I wonder what’s gone wrong.
You may already know that Yamaguchi is an icon in Hawaii. In the 80s, he and 11 other chefs created Hawaii Regional Cuisine (HRC). Before HRC, mom and pop restaurants served the “peasant” food of Hawaii, which is based on plantation-style food. Thousands of people immigrated to Hawaii from places like China, Japan, Portugal, Korea, and the Philippines to work on plantations, and the best of their cultural dishes are enjoyed in restaurants today. Continue Reading →
