Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi signing books at the Culinary Market. Daniel Lane photo

I first met Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi when she was autographing copies of her new cookbook, “The Hawaiian Book of Rice”. I was strolling through Poipu’s Culinary Market at Kukuiula Shopping Village, my favorite farmers market, when I noticed a crowd.

I love cookbooks, and they seem to fill my shelves without me noticing. Since I grew up in Colorado, I’m especially interested in cookbooks written by residents of Hawaii. As I waited in line, I noticed that proceeds were being donated to the Hawaii Food Bank (bonus), and she was giving out rice paddles to everyone who bought a copy (bonus-bonus!) At home in bed, (I like to read cookbooks before I go to sleep), I crack open the spiral-bound cookbook—loaded with archival photos and enticing images—and I’m transported to Tsutsumi’s world.

“For me, the smell of steaming rice is a panacea. No matter how bad a day I might have had, when I’m home and I inhale that familiar comforting scent, the sadness, worry, or disappointment I’m feeling dissipates. One whiff reminds me I’m in a safe place. I’m loved. Life is again in balance.”

The Hawaii Book of Rice by Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi. Daniel Lane photo

Chapter 1 is titled “Rice Chronicles” and provides an extensive history of rice, beginning with Thailand’s cultivation in 10,000 B.C. The first introduction of rice to America is speculative, the Civil War disrupts agriculture, and the emancipation of slaves make rice production less profitable. Chinese immigrants flock to Hawaii in 1852, and bring rice with them. The latter half of the 19th century produces hundreds of farms on four islands, most on Oahu and Kauai.

Tsutsumi’s roots in rice go deep. In the early 1890s, her great-grandfather farmed rice in the Huleia Valley on Kauai. Fifteen, 100-pound bags were filled in an average day, and sold for $3.50 each.

An entertaining essay titled, “Battling the Rice Birds” describes the war between farmers and birds, and the profile, “The Last Mill Standing” recounts the renovation of the Haraguchi Hoopulapula Rice Mill on Kauai’s north shore.

In Chapter 2, “A Grain of Truth”, delightful folktales from around the world remind us to be generous and kind.

“Sticky Rice and Other Stories” fills Chapter 3 with personal anecdotes that evoke a visceral connection with rice, family and friends. Gifts from faraway provinces arrive as bags of prized rice, and stories of making zongzi, dumplings, for the Dragon Boat Festival with Yeye have me yearning for my grandfather.

Hawaii’s notable chefs and home cooks provide “101 Rice-ipes” in Chapter 4. There are six sections divided into appetizers and snacks; salads; fried rice; entrees; side dishes, and sweets.

Growing up, I didn’t get much rice. Even though my mother is from Spain, where rice-based paella reigns as the national dish, her mother’s rice preparation left a gummy memory. But by the time I finished reading the well-researched 68 pages preceding the recipes, I was craving a comforting bowl of rice.

For some reason, Tsutsumi never mentions rinsing rice. I had to learn how important it is the hard way. I used to dump the rice in my rice cooker, add water and press go. Even though I sprayed the pot with a thin layer of Pam, it always stuck.

One day, I was talking story with people who grew up eating rice. I learned that the rice stuck, because it wasn’t rinsed first. It’s easy. I just measure it out, put it in a strainer, and rinse until the water turns clear.

I decided to make Creamy Korean-Style Musubi, and Pineapple Fried Rice. I’ll save the musubi for another post, and concentrate on the Pineapple Fried Rice in honor of last week’s “Discover Kauai Pineapple” post.

Roy Yamaguchi, one of Hawaii’s most influential chefs, has 31 restaurants around the world, including Oahu, Big Island, Maui and Kauai. He contributed this recipe, which you can make after a quick trip to a Chinese grocery store. Warm pineapple combined with crisp peppers, and sweet sausage add contrasting flavors and textures that make it a crowd-pleasing accompaniment to seared chicken or fish. This is high-end homey. Comfort food that will have you reaching for seconds. Click here to read Part 2 of this review which includes a recipe for musubi.

Pineapple Fried Rice

Pineapple Fried Rice. Adriana Torres Chong photo

This recipe is reprinted with the permission of Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi, who also let me use the photograph taken by Adriana Torres Chong. Serves 4 to 6.

My tip: Including prep time, this recipe takes about an hour to make. You begin by tossing cooked and cooled rice with a raw egg, lightly cooking it, and letting it stand for an hour. I had never tried this technique before, but I believe it insures each grain is separate, while adding a creamy texture.

2 eggs
4 cups rice, cooked and cooled
2 Tablespoons canola oil
4 teaspoons garlic, minced
4 teaspoons ginger, minced
4 Tablespoons carrot, minced
1/2 cup lup cheong, chopped
1/2 cup char siu, chopped
4 Tablespoons red bell pepper, minced
4 Tablespoons yellow bell pepper, minced
3 green onions, minced
1 red chili pepper, minced
3/4 cup fresh pineapple, diced
2 Tablespoons fish sauce (I’m not a huge fish sauce fan, so I used 1 tablespoon.)
4 tablespoons cilantro, minced

Rice with egg mixed in and cooked. The paddle came with the book. Marta Lane iPhoto

Beat one egg, pour over rice and mix well. Heat a wok over medium heat and lightly cook the rice in 1 tablespoon of oil until the rice is hot. (I used a non stick pan.) Remove rice and let stand for 1 hour. (I prepped the rest of my ingredients during this time.)

Heat the wok again over medium heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil when the wok is hot. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté for 20 to 30 seconds, until very light and golden brown. Add carrot, lup cheong, char siu, red bell pepper, yellow bell pepper, green onions and chili pepper, and stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes until the vegetables are tender. Add the remaining egg, and scramble. Add the pineapple and rice and stir-fry until warmed through. Add fish sauce and toss several times to mix well.

(I rearranged the steps a bit. I scrambled the eggs, and set them aside in a bowl. I added the meat first, for a minute, then the vegetables for a minute. When the vegetables were close to done, I added the garlic, ginger, and chili pepper. When I smelled the garlic, I added the pineapple, rice, eggs, and fish sauce, stirring after each addition.

Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt if necessary. (I found this unnecessary.)

Mix in cilantro. Remove from heat and keep warm. Garnish with cilantro sprigs.

If you like rice, and crave a taste of Hawaii, add The Hawaii Book of Rice to your cookbook collection. If you try this recipe, or any other in this cookbook, please let me know what you think!